Camille Vo
September 2, 2016
Mrs. Sanford
Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela is the line created by the incredibly influential Martin Maison Margiela. I chose this designer because I was amazed at how he manages to make his clothing so quirky, yet so elegant. Now, even after Margiela’s departure, the label’s haute couture still strives to be unique and thematic. The brand presented at Paris Haute Couture week last July, with a collection inspired by the French Revolution. However, my favorite line was their Spring/Summer 2016, because of the sharp lines and masculine feel. It was like business casual got turned on its head.
Before this project, I had never heard of Martin Margiela. However, this is just what he intended. Known as the “mystery man” in fashion, he refuses interviews and resists the pressure for designers to become celebrities. Ever since his brand became more widely know in the 90’s, Margiela has kept his face hidden from the public. At many of his shows, even the models keep their faces covered to express his belief in anonymity. This is also seen in his labels: Maison Margiela’s trademark white square is tacked on to every item in place of printed labels. He also doesn’t take credit for his own designs, always citing an entire team, and uses the plural form when talking of his own brand.
Although his identity is mysterious, his designs don’t lack personality. His shows are always slightly unsettling, whether it’s from random socks sewn onto garments, a top made entirely from gloves, or a vest resembling a mannequin. The New York Times considers him the reason why distressed jeans and unfinished hems have become acceptable in streetwear and high fashion. Margiela’s pieces may seem weird, but he has balanced them with whites and greys to create something that ultimately looks polished.
Even though Martin left the brand in 2009, the “faceless designer” idea still remains. Although John Galliano has been assigned the position of creative director, there is no head designer. Instead, a team of anonymous designers works together to create pieces reminiscent of Margiela. Certain elements that are distinctly Margiela, such as backwards coats and cleft toes, are still seen at every show, including their latest, Fall 2016 haute couture. According to Galliano, the show was inspired by the French Revolution. This is seen in the tri-pointed hats, metal elements, lots of wool, and slightly aggressive vibe. When watching it, I noticed a distinct ocean theme. There were models wearing heavy raincoats that resembled fishermen, and long, sleek dresses that looked very mermaid-like. Plus, there were long wading boots, which have been all over the runway this season, and netted hats that fishermen sometimes wear. The combination of both intense themes resulted in a show that transports the viewer to an 18th century quirky French port town, albeit a fashionable one!
All in all, Maison Margiela is an incredibly talented designer with an equally influential label. Although he’s not as famous as Valentino or Christian Dior, that’s exactly the way Margiela wants it to be.
Works Cited
Anonymous. "Maison Martin Margiela | The Cult of Invisibility - Part One." The Business of Fashion. The Business of Fashion, 28 Oct. 2009. Web. 01 Sept. 2016.
Berluti. "Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Couture Collection." British Vogue. Condé Nast, n.d. Web. 02 Sept. 2016.
Leaper, Caroline. "Martin Margiela." British Vogue. Condé Nast, n.d. Web. 02 Sept. 2016.
Mower, Sarah. "Maison Margiela Fall 2016 Couture Collection." Vogue. Condé Nast, 6 July 2016. Web. 02 Sept. 2016.
Wilson, Eric. "Fashion’s Invisible Man." The New York Times. The New York Times, 01 Oct. 2008. Web. 02 Sept. 2016.
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